Saturday, April 30, 2011

Day Thirty Nine - Out of Order

Friday, April 29, 2011
Distance: 0 Miles

Rest Day. The pads of my feet were tender and demanded the day off, especially the left foot. I planned to move on to Clarksburg the next day.

Day Thirty Eight - Out of Order

Thursday, April 28, 2011
Distance: 40.5 Miles

Bookkeeping note: I will get to the backlog of entries, and I will post this now to bob along with what is fresh and recent.

I started the day at the top of the eastern continental divide - Backbone Mountain: to the east, the Atlantic watershed flowing through the Potomac River to the sea; to the west, the Mississippi watershed flowing through the Ohio River and on to the Gulf of Mexico.


I started out at 0720 and finished around 2310. I walked out of Maryland, back into West Virginia and ate breakfast at the rural equivalent of a diner, the family restaurant. An older gentleman struck up a conversation across a table. He laid out in his country baritone the road, towns, and ridges I would travel that day. He asked about my shoes and suggested I rotate pairs daily as he had in Vietnam. I am warmed by the generous goodwill, the gentle, rolling conversations, and the encouragement I have received from the people I have met along my way. The gentleman got up paid his bill and left. When I later asked for my check, the waitress informed me that he had already paid for my meal.

The state flower of West Virginia is the Rhododendron. The S-curved highways, hewn from the rock and hanging over gully and ravine, form beautiful knobs of flora and stone.





I stopped for lunch at a glorious gas station, general store, gift shop, grocery, and hunting supply:


Here a gregarious coal-miner, having asked where I was coming from, told me he had been to New Jersey several times - then ducked my question, Where in New Jersey had he been, later returning to the topic unannounced, to characterize his activity as being "import-export." The wink and nod in his tone left little doubt he had been smuggling and trafficking drugs as a younger man in New Jersey. "And all over. Canada, Mexico" - as by his description.

I humped on in the daylight, past sunset, through the night, under the stars with my headlamp on. The last miles grew slower as I plodded on exhausted not daring to stop, nor let my legs seize, nor allow blood, and with it pain, to flow into my feet. In Grafton, West Virginia I arrived to find the New York Football Giants had drafted CB Prince Amakumara. Nice.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Day Twenty Two

Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Distance: 19.1 Miles

Rough day, long day, wet day, cold day.

The day started foggy.









I crossed the Appalachian Trail.


Finished late and cold.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Day Twenty One

Monday, April 11, 2011
Distance: 19 Miles






I returned to and followed the W&OD trail to its terminus in Purcellville, VA.


I did that twelve miles in one shot, found a Greek restaurant, ate a gyro, and continued west on US-7. The trail was great: well-built, shaded, picturesque, popular, and lovingly maintained. I do suspect that someone's brother-in-law is now enjoying retirement, as a small fortune was spent posting signs all over the trail. All over. It's a soccer mom's safety fantasyland. This one, however, was my favorite.


A lovely bridge:


Trail's Emblem


Off of US Highway 7 I found Bear Den, a hostel set just off the Appalachian Trail. It was quite special and reminded me of the Stone House at the Cora Hartshorn Arboretum nestled in my neighborhood back home in Short Hills.


[Taken the following morning]

Sunset from US-7


The lit rooms were crawling with brown marmorated stink bugs and the caretaker would vacuum them up every half-hour. I did laundry, ate a pizza, watched 50 First Dates (bad), and went to sleep.

[http://www.bearsdencenter.org/]

Friday, April 15, 2011

Day Twenty

Sunday, April 10, 2011
Distance: 0 Miles

Day off spent watching TV and Netflix on my phone.













Day Nineteen

Saturday, April 9, 2011
Displacement: 0 Miles
Distance: 4 Miles

I spent the day hanging out with Josh, his two race teammates Andy and John from his home town, and Andy's racing group. At the end of the day, I got dropped off at my motel for an upcoming day-off. I did not get any pictures.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Day Eighteen

Friday, April 8, 2011
Distance: 26 Miles

Walked out of the Arlington area, onto the Western & Old Dominion rail trail, and into Leesburg. The W&OD trail is wonderful.


[Looking South where I started]

The day was rainy. I had not gotten into a warm building for the second half of the trek and I paid for it. My hip was screaming at the end of the day.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Day Seventeen

Thursday, April 7, 2011
Distance: 7 Miles

Today was a beautiful day. I spent it walking a small distance, sitting in a secluded park, listening to podcasts, and on unfocused thinking about my trip and expectations leaving the New York-Washington corridor on my jaunt west. I was a bit confused and uneasy about what lay ahead of me. I received a message from my good college friend Josh. He told me he was going to be at a mountain bike race in Leesburg, Virginia and that I should hang out if I was in the area. That fixed my plans for the next few days. I resolved to make it up there the next day.

Day Sixteen

Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Distance: 0 Miles

I took this day off and stayed in my room. I rested and showered. I ate a box of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and watched episodes of Dollhouse season two. Joss Whedon is wonderful.

Day Fifteen

Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Distance: 5.6 Miles

After a great day through the District of Columbia I set out on a slow day. It was still raining at midday and I sought out a movie theater. I saw Battle: Los Angeles, I should have waited fifteen minutes for Sucker Punch - ideally I would have been able to wait three days for the premiere of Hanna. Spoiler Alert. The movie was decent war porn with terrible dialogue, clichéd exposition, a predictably triumphant conclusion, and incompletely visually-realized extraterrestrials. To its credit death reaped dispassionately with wide sweeps, and the audience's perspective and knowledge was sharply limited to that of the characters being followed. This created an intense dissection scene which was novel, high-stakes, and gripping. That acquisition of knowledge with the characters felt visceral, brutish, necessary, and life-saving.

After the movie, I resupplied at a Whole Foods. I bought Clif Bars, dried fruit, cheese, pepperoni, and bread. I linked up with US Route 50, which may end up being a significant portion of my way west.

At the end of the day I found myself in a bizarre scene at a McDonalds. A bearded, middle-aged, slightly-retarded gentleman was yelling through an amiable conversation with an elderly hetero- couple. Behind me was a homeless man lurking in and out of the rear exit sporting a poncho-shawl-survival suit made of garbage bags. This wasn't cute or absent-minded behavior; it was unsettling and purposeful with both feet firmly planted in the state of eery.

I retired to a motel for a day off.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Day Fourteen

Monday, April 4, 2011
Distance: 13.6 Miles

Walked into DC, past some famous churches, through the National Zoo, and onto Virginia. Pictures:


Flowering tree, found on most streets here.


Flower of rich purples, magentas, and white.


I had serious flashes of Assassin's Creed here.


Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception.


Find the tiger.


Find the lion.


Reptile Building.


National Cathedral.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Day Thirteen

Sunday, April 3, 2011
Distance: 10.6 Miles

I planned to stay this night with my good friend Goose. Goose and I played ultimate and lived together at Lehigh. He lives off-campus at the University of Maryland College Park. The trip down was leisurely and I spent some time on the UMD campus playing pickup ultimate with a lovely group of students. UMD is a big, grand campus.








Goose, his girlfriend Devvynnn [sic], and I played board games, ate snacks, watched TV, and then said goodnight. It was a wonderful to shower, launder, eat, sleep, and laugh at a friend's home. Thank you.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Day Twelve

Saturday, April 2, 2011
Distance: 17.2 Miles

A Baltimore Street


The weather was odd. I started around eleven and found the weather too warm for my wool base layer. I had to peel it off. Then a barely-there drizzle -- then partly-sunny -- then hail -- then partly-sunny -- then an ominous raging downpour, for ten minutes -- then beautiful billowy clouds set against the coming sunset. Setting down and changing gear every hour was annoying. Pack cover, rain jacket, rain pants, socks, and base layer all had to be done undone and redone. At one point I lost the sternum-strap buckle on my pack. This buckle was designed by someone who never thought about how it should properly function. The load is borne with its small arms, which can barely grab the shoulder strap webbing. When tightened the tension pulls the vertical strap into the area of the buckle least able to handle it. The strap bunches, and on releasing the sternum strap the buckle falls off or hangs on for dear life with one point of contact instead of four points. They designed it backwards. Other than that my gear is performing well.

I learned yesterday that my dog Cesca died. She had been quite ill with cancer in her brain and bladder as well as significant arthritis in both her rear knees. An onset of a series of seizures that left her floored and exhausted were enough. My parents had the vet kill her. She was born March 1996 and she lived to be fifteen. She was gentle, affectionate, and adorable. A favorite story of mine is that Cesca liked my friend Mike, a cat person of the highest order, and she became the first dog Mike learned to like.

I will make my way into the Beltway after leaving Baltimore to spend the night of the third with my good friend from college and ultimate, Goose.


Camden Yard


USS Constellation

I Have Found What I Was Looking For





That is all.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Day Eleven

Friday, April 1, 2011
Distance: 18.4 Miles

My paternal grandmother, Grammy, died on this day eight years ago - 2003. I loved her dearly. I've had passing sad thoughts about this anniversary through the day. She was mine and I was hers; I adored her.

The walking today started a little before nine, proceeding at a good clip with breaks every couple hours. I am realizing the key is to get as much walking in per day as possible. Obvious. Getting started at dawn becomes the crux of the dilemma. I cannot practically ratchet my pace up over a ten hour day without the threat of imminent harm - I am moving at my best non-emergency pace. The way to manufacture more miles is to find more daylight, which means I should be earlier to bed and early to rise. We will test this tonight and tomorrow. Hopefully I can make it to College Park, MD and Goose all tomorrow. In the words of Tommy Coughlin, "We'll see."

I ordered a short stack of chocolate chip pancakes and two eggs scrambled at a diner. Too much. I finished it of course but I have fixed to ordering in waves with the eggs first always, and more if necessary later. High absorption protein and fast turn-around in-and-out.

Baltimore. Baltimore is majestic and war-memorial adorned. I had no idea. I am quite impressed. Some pictures:









The last one is City Hall. The downtown is a flow of magnificently designed buildings creating canyons of traffic which are dotted and ornamented with monuments and sculpture. Impressive.

New Balance 993

Size: 7.5 2E

I love these shoes. They are comfortable; they fit right; and they look good on my feet, much better than in photos. I was a little worried they wouldn't be as good as trail runners, but as New Balance's flagship shoe they are made of high quality materials and craftsmanship.